Bringing your new dog home

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When you first bring your new dog home there are some rules that you need to decide. You will first need to decide on what times you are going to feed your dog. Eventually your dog will get used to getting fed at the times. You need to schedule about when your pup will go outside for bathroom breaks and when and who will take it on a walk. You need to decide these things with everyone or at least make sure that everyone knows. If you dog gets different feeding times each day, they may get confused about when they are supposed to be eating, ( Or some dogs may just accept it and be happy about all the food! )

You need to decide what rooms you puppy will be allowed to go in at first. Over time and when your puppy grows older you could add rooms onto the list that they are allowed to go in. For example, Emma and Sophie are not allowed to go upstairs at all because they are not quite trained to not tear up everything in their path.  If you have a room full of china or other expensive items, you may not want your dog to go in there at first.

You need to decide who will be taking your dog for walks. You may want to alternate who is taking your dog for walks and create a schedule of who is taking the dog and when.  Ideally  your dog should have two walks each day.

Top Dog Breeds of 2007

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Here are the top 5 dog breeds of 2007 and just a snippet about them.

1. Labrador Retriever

Just like my little baby Emma, Labs are one of the few dogs distinguished with webbed feet and a wide tail. They are recognized as a great family dog and are superb hunting partners. This is the Labrador Retrievers 17th consecutive year as the AKC’s Top dog.

2. Yorkshire Terriers

Yorkshire Terriers may be tiny but certainty have a personalty that is much bigger than their size. They tend to get along with anybody and are happy and outgoing. Even though they ony weight around 6 pounds, people need to remember that they still need the exercise that all other terriers need.

3. German Shepard

German Shepard’s are one of the most versatile dogs today. This dog has tons of self-confidence and intelligence and is used by law enforcement and search and rescue teams. They are highly trainable and can fulfill almost any role a dog could have that any owner could think of.

4. Golden Retriver

Golden Retrievers have become popular because of their versatile nature and smooth personalty. Their loving and gentle nature towards others has escalated their standing as a family dog. They are one of the most popular dog breeds according to the ACK.

5. Beagle

Beagles have no aggressiveness towards others , or timidity. They make excellent hunting dogs because of their alertness and drive. These dogs do best in a working home but at times can be extremely stubborn.

Thats the end of the great dog breeds of 2007!

Equipment for your New Dog

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Before you bring the newest furry addition to your family home, you need to make sure that you have everything to make them feel right at home.

First of all, you need to have a bed and crate for your furry friend. You may want to measure your dog and find out how big they will be when they are older. Then you would be able to get a crate and bed that is not too big, nor too small. If you get a dog that is not yet trained or chews a lot, I would suggest a warm sheet or blanket so that the $100 bed that you would buy does not end up as a pile of shreds on the couch.

You need to have Food and Water bowls so that your dog dose not have to eat out of your plastic containers. You’ll also need brushes to keep your dogs coat in tip-top shape, a collar and leash so that you and your new friend can take a walk around the block. Also make sure that you have an ID tag on the collar so that is Rover ever escapes they can quickly get back to their bed. OF course you also need toys to keep you pup occupied while you are there or not.

Now to get more in depth with all of these supplies. Molded plastic dog beds are easy to clean and last quite a long time. Woven Wicker baskets look nice but are not necessarily easy to clean and you dog may chew them up. A nice idea is to buy a washable mattress that snuggly fits inside your dogs bed. Small bean bags with washable covers are also nice comfy beds for dogs. Once you have a good sized crate, try to make it more comfortable with familiar smelling blankets and a few toy.

You need to have separate bowls for food and water, and need to wash them regularly and keep them clean. Placing a large washable mat under the food and water bowls to keep the floor clean is a good idea.

There are different types for brushes for different dogs. You need to make sure that you keep your dogs coat clean and healthy by brushing it. Dogs also need to brush their teeth, and you can do this by using a kids toothbrush with special dog toothpaste you can buy from your vet.

You need to get your dog used to wearing a collar as soon as they come home. Woven Nylon Collars with buckles are cheap, simple, and good for most dogs. Rolled leather collars are good for long haired dogs. Body Harnesses suit dogs with thick necks such as pugs, as well as little delicate breeds like Yorkshire Terriers.

When you are buying a leash for your dog, you may want to consider the following. Nylon leashes are almost unbreakable, but you would need to chose one that would be thick enough for your dog. You have to make sure your dogs collar has a ID tag on it with at least your name and phone number. Then if your furry companion ever got lost, they could quickly get back to their real home.

Of course all dogs need toys to play with! I would suggest having a good variety of toys for different games. Nylon Bones and Rubber Rings are great for just chewing. Nylon Ropes and Sticks are good for a game of Tug-Of-War. Frisbees and Balls are great for fetching or catching.

One BIG thing is to never give your dog anything they could choke on!!!

Pros and Cons of Control Tools

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Sometimes the distinction between training and control is too easily lost. Using commands and hand gestures, with leashes or treats, to solicit desired behavior is training. Using choke or ‘no-bark’ collars, electronic fences and similar devices is for control.

Control isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Dogs naturally have and seek a social ranking in which one is the alpha (leader) and in any human-dog pair the human has to take that role. The alternative is property destruction, unsafe conditions for dogs and humans, human frustration and a maladjusted dog.

Choke collars were invented to assist in gaining control. Dogs, like humans, are individuals. Some are naturally more assertive or slower to learn. For ones that don’t respond to a normal leather or nylon collar, a metal choke collar can provide extra discouragement from pulling and leaping.

The potential downside is that, used improperly - all too easy to do - they can be counter-productive and even dangerous. Choke collars fit only one way and when fitted should allow from one to three fingers gap between the neck and the collar. Three for larger dogs, one for smaller. Generally a collar two inches longer than the neck circumference will do.

Used improperly, though, choke collars can pinch the skin - producing hot spots that scratching will make worse. They can also accidentally compress the trachea. An instantaneous pull-and-release isn’t harmful, though by design produces discomfort, but for dogs that tend to pull against the leash this movement is difficult to do. Generally not recommended, especially not recommended for smaller dogs.

Prong collars are less dangerous than they appear, but - in this trainer’s view - have almost no positive characteristics. The only good aspect of the design is their limited diameter - they can only close down so far. However, an animal with such a strong tendency to pull that prongs look attractive needs more than a quick fix consisting of choking and poking. That animal needs committed attention and behavior modification training.

Halter collars, which wrap around the neck and the muzzle, but don’t prevent panting or impair drinking can give extra control. The downside is, since they don’t restrict biting or grasping, half of  their potential value is gone. An ordinary leash and collar, or even a chest halter might be better.

‘No-bark’ collars can sometimes help with those animals that persist in barking long after the initial impetus is gone. Barking is a natural response to potential threats and is also used to attract attention when one becomes separated from the pack. But, for reasons not well understood, some dogs continue barking for long periods of time or at the slightest annoyance.

Electronic collars that discourage barking come in two types: noise and shock. Noise collars produce a short, unpleasant sound that distracts and tends to discourage continued barking.

Shock collars generate a short but painful electric shock that can be repeated and lengthy during constant or persistent barking. Objective tests of their effectiveness show varied results, though. As with prong collars, any dog needing one would benefit more from careful, help, from a  professional.

Sometimes quick fixes are tempting and useful… until they become substitutes for more benifical (both to the trainer and dog) long-term training. Taking the time to learn to get your dog’s attention and compliance without excessive dependence on control devices is preferred. The results are more sane trainers and happier dogs.

Crate Training- Pros and Cons

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Proponents argue that crating gives the dog a sense of ‘property’, a place it can call its own. In this little home within the owners home, the dog feels safe surrounded by smells and objects that he or she can identify. Here, the dog can retreat from fearful noises or boisterous children.

Those who favor crate training assert that potty training is much easier when combined with use of a crate. Dogs, they say, will naturally avoid soiling their ‘home’ and ‘hold it’ until they’re taken to go outside.

Opponents counter that locking the dog into a cage barely large enough to turn around in suppresses its natural desire to roam. It removes the dog’s ability to explore its environment at will and to soak up stimulating sights and smells.

Those against the use of crates point to the frequent instances when puppies will play in their own waste and simply soil themselves worse. Locking the dog away, they say, is more for the convenience of the owner than the life of the dog. How would you feel locked up in a crate just for your owners well being?

As with any argument of this kind, there are no doubt good and bad points on both sides. Objective studies on the issue are sparse and equally divided. Provided certain ‘rules’ are observed, there’s probably no harm, and possibly some good, to be had from crate training. Such as if you were taking your dog on a long trip and would rather your dog to NOT be running free on your lap while you are trying to concentrate on driving on the highway. In that case I would guess you would rather to put up with the whining than crash into a car while wagging your finger at your ashamed dog in the passengers seat.

Even proponents recognize that excessive lengths of forced crate time is bad for the dog. Any dog locked up in a small space is not getting needed exercise and may be restrained from eliminating for longer than is healthy. So, keep the crate time to no more than two hours maximum. If you are on a long trip and your dog needs to be contained, if you spot a park take rover for a quick walk to go to the bathroom and get some exercise.

Opponents worry that crated dogs can injure themselves through a natural desire to escape or rowdiness inside the cage. Make sure that the collar won’t snag. Check to ensure there are no sharp edges on the crate, and that construction is strong enough to withstand the dog’s normal jostling and pushing on the walls. Above all, make sure it can’t tip over.

Advocates assert that crate trained animals will do better on car, train or plane trips. They’re used to the confinement and they have a familiar-smelling environment with them during a time of stress. For owners who have to take their pets on long trips, there may be some value in this view.

Critics suggest that (except in cases of permanent re-location) it’s best to leave pets at home. Apart from short trips to the grocery store or vet or to a neighbor’s house, animals fare better in familiar territory. But, if you must take them, be especially careful to do so in a well-constructed crate. Make sure no objects can fall into, not just out of, the cage.

Though the debate isn’t likely to be settled anytime soon, exercising common sense is the best way to judge the actual net effect - good or bad - on your particular pet. Try leaving the door open after a few weeks of training and see whether they seek or avoid the crate. Let the dog weigh in on the question.

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